Bologna: The Wise Fat Porky City (Their words. Not ours)
We love Italy, and in particular Emilia Romagna. We have visited several times, and hope to visit several (thousand?) more times. We’re not locals, but we aspire to be. Our running list of favorites.
Restaurants
If we had to choose one restaurant above all others, this might be it. Not the absolute best, but damned solid. It is AA (Ann Approved), because it is a place where you can go and eat easily if you don’t eat red meat (which can be challenging in Bologna). The service is great, the room is cozy and comfortable, and the food is always very good. Jennifer never leaves without a plate of Gramigna con Salsiccia.
Tortelloni with Burro e Oro (tomato and butter) - Ristorante al Sangiovese.
Homemade Macaroni with Sausage and Mushrooms - Trattoria ‘Zita’
We don’t know why the name is in quotes, but it just is. Douglas’s personal favorite place for a sit down meal in Bologna. There is no menu, only what they have that night. You have to take a bus from the center for about 15 minutes to get there. The all female staff is absurdly friendly, and you really feel like you are eating Nonna’s Bolognese food when you dine here. The value is excellent, and for the love of God get the fried potatoes and the house made “Macaroni” if they are on offer.
We ate here only once, but we are not sure why. The food was very very good. It is famous, but justifiably so in our opinion. Try and order a dish with Romagnola pork. It is a very hard to find local strain. We sampled a pasta dish with it and butter. Porktastic. Also, there is a seafood menu available, but they will not tell you about it if you don’t ask. Oh, Italy.
Pasta e Fagioli - Trattoria Casa Mia
Trattoria Casa Mia (AA)
A locals place. You can tell it is largely populated by people who live around the neighborhood. Well maybe we can’t tell, but we are pretty sure. The food is really good and they have a bargain weekday lunch special,. The outstanding, and rarely offered, Spuma della Mortadella and Fried Zucchini Blossoms (not part of said lunch special) are highly recommended. Like most places in Bologna, reservations are essential.
Ristorante Biagi
Come hungry folks. Dine on a ridiculously large portion of Tortellini in Brodo. Seriously be careful. They put more than 120 Tortellini in there - they’re tiny but it’s still an astonishing amount of food. There was an INCIDENT. We’ll leave it at that. Also recommended for Tagliatelle con Ragu, Roast Beef and the Bollito Misto (traditionally eaten at Sunday lunch). Honestly the mashed potatoes may be the best par of the Misto, and that is no disrespect to the meats. #Carbs2022. Be advised the restaurant is super traditional, which is to say it is virtually all meaty and cheesy.
Osteria Broccaindosso (AA)
If you are brushing up on restaurants in Bologna you really don’t need us for this recommendation. They have over two thousand reviews on TripAdvisor. But be advised, (see what we did there) you HAVE to get the shared antipasto selection. Maybe order it for one person fewer than the actual part (we did). Definitely a highlight of the meal, and very much AA. They give you a great selection of smaller vegetable dishes with some meat dishes as well. Awesome - like a small plates meal where they choose for you.
You are going here for the experience. The food is good, but the proprietor is worth the price of admission. Apparently they have a menu. We didn’t see it, until we had finished, and we doubt if you will either. He will talk to you, sit with you, and advise you. Osteria’s are traditionally casual places for simpler food, and drinks. For us this a quintessential Osteria. Drink wine, eat a couple crostini, and have the Beef (the revered Chianina reputedly) Tartare if available.
Osteria dell’Orsa (AA)
It’s fun, it’s open all day, and the value is incredible. Eat like a real Bolognese University student at communal tables. The food is not going to blow your mind, but you will have a good time at a great price. We like the crostini, the soups, and the Tagliatelle con Ragu, particularly. Be prepared to wait in line. It’s part of the fun.
Because you can’t eat meat, cheese, and pasta every day. (Someone told us.) This restaurant located in the Mercato dell’Erbe is an all seafood casual location. They have a daily menu, and it is done with a lighter touch. There is definitely a French feel to the offerings. No reservations.
APERITIVO
Awesome drinks with free snacks. Be like a local and kill the dinner pre-game.
Magically delicious “sandwiches” at Enoteca Bar Des Arts. (And did we mention the Francia Corta?)
Enoteca Bar des Arts
As local as local gets. We have been there three times and never seen another tourist. The room has a ton of character they have delicious wines by the glass (Francia Corta, Francia Corta) and they bring you delicious little sandwiches on nicely toasted bread from time to time.
Enoteca Italiana
They don’t have free food here, but it is a great location with an extremely knowledgeable staff. It is like being in a library – full of wine. Someone improved libraries. Advice (in English) is readily available, which is good, because there are a lot of choices. Quality meats and cheeses can be ordered, but you will have to pay for them.
Gamberini (AA)
Gamberini. Looking good. Of course.
You are going to pay for it. We are a value conscious people, but sometimes a splurge is worth it. Old Bolognese location with a beautiful setting, and gorgeous little bites. If you come after 6 they have a buffet that is free with your drink. Note: Gamberini is primarily a pasticceria and cafe - exceptional coffee as well as sweet and savory pastry items are available all day long. We have also spent many a drool-inducing minute marveling at their extraordinary window displays. SHINY!
Bebi Bar
Okay so this place is REALLY nothing special but at the same time completely enjoyable. Visit on a nice day at dusk and mill around outside with your drinks in the late day sunshine with the locals. It is a unique experience. Hard to quantify why, but definitely immersive. It is right by the oldest Osteria in Bologna. Osteria del Sole, which pre-dates Columbus’s arrival in America.
Bar Senza Nome
Very popular place near the Mercato dell”Erbe. They have deaf employees only. There are even paper slips to help order your drinks – we didn’t need them, however. The drinks are good and reasonable, and they have spicy Corn Nuts. Important note: there are no Corn Nuts like Italian Corn Nuts. They have spicy ones. Shouldn’t you be going to the airport by now?
Canapes and snacks at Zanarini with a fancy berry (adult) beverage.
Salome
Sometimes you want a cheap drink. Only 4 Euro for a “double” spritz right by the tourist area. They have an outdoor heated patio. Sit outside and knock a couple back with the students. Absolutely nothing else included.
Zanarini
Again sometimes you have to pay. But if you want to sit out in the sun near the Piazza Maggiore this is a great option. The canapés are lovely. Another place with jaw dropping pastry displays, but we don’t know if they taste as good as they look. Try the berry flavored spritz.